Thursday, December 29, 2016

How Long Does It Take to Make a Batch of Beer?

As a home brewer, there is one question that almost every non-brewer asks me: "How long does it take to make a batch of beer?" This question might mean any of the following, or all of them:

  • How much time and effort goes into brewing and bottling a batch of beer?
  • How long does it take to go from grain, water, yeast, and hops to a finished glass of beer?
  • How long does the brewing and bottling process take, end-to-end?
They might even be asking a combination of these questions.

The unfortunate part is that you can't give a single answer to the question. Brewing effort is affected by:

  • The brewer's experience and skill level
  • The brewer's equipment
  • Whether the recipe is an extract brew, all-grain brew, mini-mash, or extract with steeping grains
  • The temperature in the brewing area (e.g, if it's cold, it takes longer to heat water)
  • The recipe being made
  • The yeast strain being used
  • The availability of temperature control during fermentation
What I usually tell people is that "for me, for a typical beer, with a typical recipe, using my usual equipment and processes, it will take me about 5-7 hours of effort and 2-4 weeks of elapsed time to produce a 5-gallon batch of beer. This varies a bit depending on the style, the complexity of the recipe, and so on."

If you have a friend or family member who brews, they may give you a very different answer. Don't make the mistake of thinking that they are lying to you. Someone with an automated brewing system like the Picobrew Zymatic might only have a couple of hours of effort involved in a brew and be able to go from grain to bottle in 2-3 weeks. Someone else, with a heavily manual setup, a low-wattage electric heating element, and a complex all-grain recipe might tell you it's an 8-12 hour process and takes months of elapsed time to produce a single beer.

I think the fastest I've produced an unfermented beer with my current setup was about 5 hours. That beer took a week to ferment and a week to bottle condition before it was drinkable.

The slowest a batch has taken was a 6-7 hour brewing process, followed by two weeks of fermentation, a month of secondary fermentation, 90 minutes of bottling, and a full year of bottle conditioning. (That beer won't be ready until April 2017.)

Thursday, December 22, 2016

Gulden Draak Clone, version 2.0

About two years ago, I decided to try my luck at brewing a Gulden Draak clone. Gulden Draak is one of my favorite Belgian beers, but its price makes it one that I don't drink nearly as often as I'd like.

To do that particular clone, I cultured up yeast from the dregs of four bottles of the real beer and tossed it in an extract beer I'd brewed based on a recipe in a book.

This time around, I wanted to do an all-grain clone and see if commercial dry yeasts would result in a beer that was close to the original.

As you can see in the image at the left, the clone came out very close in color to the original beer. Unfortunately, while there were similarities in the flavor and aroma, in those respects the clone needs more work.

The recipe below is derived from one I found somewhere... in a book or online.

The Ingredients

13 pounds Belgian 2-row Pale Malt
1 pound Caramel/Crystal 40L
1 pound WhiteSwaen Wheat Malt
8 ounces Melanoidin Malt
5 ounces Caramunich I Malt
4 ounces Biscuit Malt
2 ounces Acid Malt
1 pound Rice Syrup Solids
1 pound D-90 Candi Syrup
0.90 ounces Magnum hops pellets @ 12.3% AA
0.60 ounces Styrian Goldings hops pellets @ 6.2% AA
1 ounce Styrian Goldings hops pellets @ 1.3% AA
1/4 teaspoon Super Irish Moss
1/2 teaspoon Yeast Nutrient
1 package Safbrew T-58 dry yeast
1 package Safbrew Abbaye yeast

The original recipe called for Caramel 60L which I didn't have and listed Brewer's Gold for bittering hops. I swapped the 60L out for 40L and Magnum for Brewer's Gold (since I had a lot of Magnum and no Brewer's Gold). Since the Brewer's Gold was there only for bittering, the switch might not be detectable anyway.

Per BeerSmith, with my equipment profile, this beer is estimated to have the following characteristics:
  • Batch size: 5 gallons
  • Original Gravity: 22.7 Plato (23.6 Brix)
  • IBUs: 27.5
  • Color: 16.8 SRM
  • ABV: 10.5%
  • BU/GU ratio: 0.28
  • Pre-boil Gravity: 21.9 Plato (22.8 Brix)
  • Final Gravity: 4.4 Plato (4.6 Brix)
When I finished brewing, these were my actual results:
  • Final kettle volume: 5.8 gallons (approx.)
  • Original Gravity: 22.0 Brix (20.5 Plato)
  • Pre-boil Gravity: 18.8 Brix (before addition of rice syrup solids and D-90)
  • Fermenter volume: 5 gallons (approx. 0.6 lost to trub in the kettle)
  • Final Gravity: Refractometer reading, unadjusted, was 10.6 Brix. Adjusting for the presence of alcohol and original gravity in BeerSmith gave a final gravity of 3.07 Plato, 1.012 SG.
  • ABV: 10.65% estimated
I came out a little short on gravity, which means I need to do some adjusting in BeerSmith so I can dial in the estimates in the future. The lower gravity is possibly due to a reported reduction in The Grainfather's efficiency for grain bills over 11 pounds.

The Mash

The recipe called for a 90-minute mash at 156F. This is followed by a 10-minute mash-out at 168F.

Mash water in The Grainfather was calculated to 6.4 gallons, but I dialed it back to 6 for easier measurement.

Sparge water was calculated at 1.6 gallons, which I adjusted to 1.5 gallons.

The grains were crushed, mixed, then scooped into the 156F water and stirred to ensure they were all moistened properly. The Grainfather's recirculating pump was engaged and the wort left to mash for 90 minutes.

After the 10 minute mash-out, 1.5 gallons of 168F sparge water went over the grain to rinse out the last of the sugars.

BeerSmith estimated pre-boil volume was 6.25 gallons. My actual volume was: 6.4 gallons after adding some water.

The Boil

With the grain sparged and discarded, the wort was brought to a boil. Boil time was 90 minutes.

For the first 30 minutes of the boil, no hops were added. This was done to help clarify the wort a bit and hopefully reduce chill haze, which is something I see frequently with The Grainfather. In a beer this dark, that was probably unnecessary but I decided to do it anyway.

The last 60 minutes of the 90-minute boil went as follows:
  • 60 minutes: Add Magnum hops pellets
  • 15 minutes: Add Styrian Goldings (0.6 oz. @ 6.2%) pellets, yeast nutrient, rice syrup solids, and candi syrup
  • 10 minutes: Add rehydrated Super Irish Moss dissolved in cooled wort
  • 7 minutes: Recirculate wort through counter flow chiller to sterilize
  • 0 minutes: Add the Styrian Goldings (1 oz. @ 1.3% AA) for aroma, run cold water (but not wort) through the chiller to cool it down. With the chiller cooled, the wort was pumped into the fermenter.
Post-boil volume was 5.8 gallons at an original gravity of 22.0 Brix.


Wort was chilled to 68F via the counter flow chiller. Fermenter volume was a touch over 5 gallons. Pure oxygen was added for 60 seconds, then the yeast and White Labs Clarity Ferm were added.

The yeast was permitted to ferment at its own natural temperature with no attempt to control the temperatures. This is my standard approach for Belgian style ales. I saw a slight temperature increase in the wort about 3 hours out, and frequent airlock activity at the 7-hour check.

Update 1/16/2017: While bottling, it was clear that the fermentation was extremely vigorous. There was the usual ring of yeast on the inside of the fermenter, but it had gotten all the way to the lid of the 7.5 gallon fermenter and into the bottom of the airlock. A blow-off tube wouldn't be a bad idea in the future.

Post-Mortem and Other Notes

This brew, weighing in at over 16 pounds of grain plus two pounds of adjuncts, pushes the 20-pound grain bill limit of The Grainfather. Getting the grain stirred into the mash and the wort recirculating was a bit of a challenge, but The Grainfather handled it fine.

Something I've learned that saves me some elapsed time in brewing is to clean as I go. For instance, when I've finished sparging, I drop the grain basket into a stainless kettle that's large enough to hold it. I scoop the spent grains out, into a plastic bag inside a trash can. While I'm doing this, the wort is heating to boiling temperature. By the time the wort hits the boil, I've dealt with the spent grain and rinsed the grain basket, lid, and kettle. Once the hot break is done and the risk of a boil-over eliminated, I mix up PBW in the stainless kettle and clean the grain basket, lid/bottom, tubes, and anything else I'm finished with. Generally, by the time the boil is over, all I have left to clean is The Grainfather's kettle itself and the few plastic containers I use to measure and hold hops additions, Irish Moss, etc. The leftover PBW in the kettle is used to clean up The Grainfather itself.

12/22/2016: Within about 7 hours the beer was fermenting well. The fermenter temperature remained pretty low for the first 12 hours, eventually climbing from 68F to around 73F. Airlock activity seemed to stop around there. Several hours later, it picked up again and the temperature seemed to climb into the 77F range. I think it's safe to say the yeast are happy.

12/23/2016: I opened an actual bottle of Gulden Draak last night and compared the color to a sample I removed from the kettle during brewing. The color of the two is very close, so I am hopeful there might be similarity in the flavor as well. Won't know for a while, of course.

Sample during the boil. Note that the D-90 and Rice Syrup Solids had not yet been added so the color is a bit light here.
01/16/2017: The beer was bottled yesterday with 5.3 ounces of corn sugar and Montrachet wine yeast for carbonation and conditioning. It's said that the actual beer is conditioned with wine yeast so that's what I chose to use here. The yield was 44 bottles varying in size between 12 ounces and 22 ounces. The bottles were moved to my "hot box" (insulated cooler with a heating element inside) where they'll stay at 76F until I'm ready to test carbonation. The beer at this point is very cloudy, and is something of a reddish brown color. It has a fruity aroma and (even while flat and warm) a decent flavor. I don't know that it tastes at all like a real Gulden Draak at this point, but that may change with conditioning, carbonation, and cooling.

A sample of the beer at bottling time, showing color and cloudiness
If I brew this again in the future:
  • I would consider adding some Special B, more D-90, and the Caramel 60L that the original recipe called for. This would darken the beer a little, like the original, and might amp up the dark fruit flavors a bit.
  • A blow-off tube on the fermenter seems a good idea. This one very nearly blew out through the airlock at the high point of fermentation, despite a lot of head space.
  • I would consider using temperature control to slowly ramp the temperature up over several days and hold it at 76F at the end to finish out. This version has a definite warming element from the high alcohol content which is mellowing out a little with conditioning, but some temperature control might have solved that.
  • I view the real Gulden Draak as a bit sweet, and this beer did not turn out that way. I'd probably mash at a higher temperature next time to increase the residual sweetness.
  • The combo of T-58 and Abbaye yeast strains seemed to work well. The beer has a great aroma, certainly reminiscent of Gulden Draak, and the fruity/spicy elements are present.
Tasting Notes and Parting Thoughts

At the right is a photo showing the clone beer on the left and the real Gulden Draak on the right. The two are very close in color.

The clone needed more carbonation and its head didn't last as long as the real beer's, as you can see in the photo. The real beer was poured first and had a head far longer. To correct that, I'd probably increase the Melanoidin Malt the next time, or swap out some of the 2-row Pale for Cara-Pils malt.

The real Gulden Draak aroma is very much sweet dark fruit, like raisins, figs, and/or plums. The clone's aroma is more caramel malt. Switching to one of the liquid yeast strains like Wyeast's Forbidden Fruit might help bring the aroma closer.

The flavor of the real Gulden Draak is sweet, loaded with dark fruit, and has the faintest warming note to it. The clone's flavor is more caramel, has a stronger warming note to it, and only a small amount of fruitiness. I think that adding some Special B malt to the mix might bring out that flavor, as well as perhaps increasing the D-90 syrup a bit. While I like the clone's flavor, it doesn't hold a candle to a real Gulden Draak.

The bitterness level was about right, so I wouldn't tweak that element of the recipe at all.

The changes I plan to make in version 3.0 are:
  • Swap out some of the Pale Ale Malt for Cara-Pils malt, maybe only 4 ounces. This would be to increase head retention.
  • Swap out some of the Pale Ale Malt for Special B malt, maybe 4-5 ounces. This would hopefully bring out the dark fruit flavors. It may darken the beer a bit, though, so it probably won't look like the real beer.
  • Consider adding 8 ounces of additional D-90 syrup, perhaps during secondary. This would also help to bring out the dark fruit flavors.
  • Consider actually adding raisins near the end of the boil, to add that flavor.
  • Swap out the dry yeasts for Wyeast Forbidden Fruit.
  • Instead of an airlock, use a blow-off tube, as the fermentation was unusually aggressive. Despite having 2 gallons of head space in the fermenter, I found yeast residue on the lid.
  • Although I usually don't use temperature control on my Belgian style beers, next time around I plan to do so. I'm thinking a ramp up of temperature from pitching temp to 76F over a 1-2 week period would work, using heating and cooling to hold the desired temp.
  • Give the beer a conditioning phase at 50F for a couple of weeks to smooth it out before bottling.
You might think, from this volume of changes, that the beer isn't very good. That's not true. It's very drinkable and enjoyable as-is, it's just not the Gulden Draak clone I was looking for.

Monday, December 19, 2016

Surly Bender Brown Ale Clone v1.0

Surly Brewing Company of Minneapolis, Minnesota, is well respected in the craft beer community for its many fine beers. None of them are available, as of this writing, in Ohio. I ran across a clone recipe on Northern Brewer, supposedly provided by the brewmasters at Surly, for their Bender brown ale. I liked the general description of the beer and its ingredient list, so I decided to brew my own version.

At left, you can see the finished beer and the Futurama-inspired label I came up with for it.

The finished beer is a dark brown color with thin beige head that doesn't last more than a few seconds. As a first attempt at a brown ale, I'm happy with it.

I've never had the actual Surly beer, so it's fair to say this is not an exact clone. It's more like my interpretation of what I imagine the real beer to be like.

The Ingredients

7.25 pounds 2-row Pale Malt
1.75 pounds Aromatic Malt
12 ounces Crystal/Caramel 60L Malt
12 ounces Belgian Special B Malt
12 ounces Flaked Oats
4 ounces Pale Chocolate Malt
0.60 ounces of whole Nugget Hops @ unknown AA %
0.40 ounces of Willamette Hops pellets @ 4.2% AA, plus 4-5 pellets of Northern Brewer @ 10.5%
1.55 ounces of Willamette Hops pellets @ 4.2% AA
1/2 tsp. yeast nutrient
1/4 tsp. Super Irish Moss, rehydrated in cooled wort
1 vial of White Labs Clarity Ferm
1 packet Safale S-04 ale yeast

If you look up the clone recipe on the web, you'll find that it calls for Columbus hops rather than Nugget, and WLP007 British Ale Yeast instead of S-04. I had used my Columbus hops in another recipe, but had just received a package of homegrown whole Nugget hops from a friend. Since Columbus is a descendent of Nugget hops, I decided to swap them out. Unfortunately I had no way to know what alpha acid percentage the homegrown hops had, so I estimated them at 14%. Given that, the BeerSmith estimates for the brew are:

  • Style: American Brown Ale
  • Estimated OG: 13.91 Plato
  • IBUs: 26.6
  • Color: 20.8 SRM
  • Estimated ABV: 5.6%
  • Bitterness Ratio: 0.469
  • Batch Size: 5.78 gallons (long story, but this odd value actually nets me 5 gallons in the fermenter at the desired gravity, given my setup and efficiency)
Following were the actual characteristics of my brew:
  • Pre-boil Gravity: 11.5 Brix (BeerSmith estimated 14.1)
  • Original Gravity: 13.9 Brix (BeerSmith estimated 14.3)
  • Volume: 6.6 gallons pre-boil, 6.2 post-boil, 5.3 in the fermenter, 0.7 gallons left in kettle (estimated)
The Mash

This was brewed using iMake's The Grainfather RIMS system. I began by calculating that 4.75 gallons of mash water were needed, along with 2.75 gallons of sparge water. I put these amounts in The Grainfather's kettle and my sparge water kettle, treating with some Campden Tablet to remove chlorine and chloramine. 

The mash water was heated to 154F. Grain was then gradually added and stirred in. The recirculation arm was setup and the pump kicked on. Mash time was 60 minutes. At the end of mashing, the wort was heated to 168F.

The 168F sparge water was gradually added after the grain basket was lifted out. I'd estimated having 6.6 gallons of wort pre-boil but actually had about 6. I added enough water to get to 6.6 gallons and set The Grainfather to boil. Pre-boil gravity was 11.5 Brix, well below the estimate of 14.1 from BeerSmith. 

The Boil

The recipe called for first wort hops using Columbus. I used the whole Nugget hops instead, adding these as I removed the grain basket and set the kettle controls to boil.

A 60 minute boil with the following schedule was used:
  • 60 minutes: Added 0.4 ounces Willamette hops pellets
  • 10 minutes: Added rehydrated Super Irish Moss and stirred kettle
  • 7 minutes: Recirculated wort through counter flow chiller to sterilize
  • 0 minutes: Added 1.55 ounces of Willamette for aroma
Post-boil volume was 6.1 gallons, a little below the estimate, but the gravity hit 13.9 Brix.

Ingredients and brew day recipe sheet with mash and boil schedules

The Fermentation

Since it's winter here in Ohio, the tap water is nice and cold. Wort pumped into the fermenter from the kettle at 68F. I added White Labs Clarity Ferm and the packet of S-04 yeast as the wort pumped into the kettle, hoping this would help to mix both in very well and aid fermentation. 

My temperature control system was set to keep the beer at 68F, cooling and heating as needed. Since the basement is around 64.5F right now, The cooling probably won't be needed much, probably only during the high-point of fermentation.

The beer was allowed to ferment until 12/31/2016 in the primary fermentation vessel.


After 12 days, the beer appeared to stop fermenting. I boiled 5 ounces of corn sugar in water to prime the beer for bottling and transferred it into the bottling bucket using gravity and a plastic hose.

I ended up with one 25-ounce bottle, 9 22-ounce bottles, 4 16-ounce bottles, and 25 12-ounce bottles plus a nice sized sample to taste. That works out to something in the 4.6-gallon range.

The yeast cake in the bottom of the fermenter was dense and had to be scooped out. There was around a 3-inch band of dead yeast around the top of the fermentation bucket, indicating a pretty healthy fermentation.

The finished beer has a great malty aroma with a touch of dark fruit from the Special B. The flavor has just a hint of sweetness to it, with a nice roasty grain backdrop. The hops presence balances the malt nicely to my taste. It may be the best brown ale I've tasted, given that it was mostly flat and warm at the time. I'm looking forward to the finished product.

I'm planning to give the beer two weeks in my 76F "hot box" to ensure carbonation, followed by at least two weeks in a refrigerator to hopefully get nice and clear. Then I'll be back to share tasting notes and thoughts for future batches of the beer.

Post-Mortem and Other Notes

The smell coming from the kettle when I brewed this one was outstanding. It had to be one of the best-smelling worts I've ever produced. I'm hopeful the yeast will like it and do its thing to turn this into a great brown ale.

Brewing with the homegrown hops was a small gamble, not knowing how bitter they actually are, but since I'd calculated my additions based on minimal bitterness for the style, I figured the worst-case scenarios were that it would be only very mildly bitter (which is fine for me) or if they were unusually bitter for Nugget hops, they would still not go beyond the style guidelines.

A taste of the unfermented wort showed a definite hops presence, but not an excessive one. The finished wort also had a raisin-like aroma to it, possibly from the Special B malt. 

The finished beer is quite good. The hops and malts appear to be in good balance, with neither really overwhelming the other. The flavor has some subtle roasty notes to it. We've found it very easy to drink and have already gone through a few bottles before cold conditioning has finished.

If I brew this again, I think I would increase the amount of Special B slightly and possibly mash at a slightly higher temperature to hopefully bump up that element of the flavor and increase the body a little. I might also add in some Cara Pils or Melanoidin malt to improve head retention. I might also bump the hops quantity up about 10-15% to give it a little more of a bite. Those of you who like hoppier brews might even want to increase them a lot more.

Monday, December 12, 2016

Belgian Tripel v6.0

Back in May, I brewed my last attempt at a Belgian Tripel. All of the attempts so far have been good beers but haven't been exactly what I wanted... sort of  cross between Unibroue's La Fin Du Monde, Tripel Karmeliet, and Victory Golden Monkey. I want a mildly sweet base with notes of spice and fruit showing through. The recipe below is a variation on a La Fin Du Monde clone recipe I found, and marks the sixth time I've tried to brew a Tripel I really loved.

The Ingredients

11 pounds of Bohemian Pilsner Malt
8 ounces of Honey Malt
4 ounces of Munich Malt
3 ounces of Cara-Pils Malt
2 ounces of Aromatic Malt
1.25 pounds of table sugar
1 pound of Golden Candi Syrup (5L)
1/2 tsp. Coriander seed, crushed
0.5 oz. Bitter Orange Peel
0.25 oz. Sweet Orange Peel
0.5 oz. Styrian Goldings @ 6.2% AA
0.35 oz. Northern Brewer @ 10.1% AA
0.3 oz. Styrian Goldings @ 6.2% AA
0.3 oz. Hallertau Mittelfrueh @ 4% AA
0.65 oz. Czech Saaz @ 3.2%
1 Campden Tablet
1 Tbsp. pH 5.2 Stabilizer
0.5 tsp. Super Irish Moss
0.5 tsp. Yeast Nutrient
1 packet White Labs Clarity Ferm
1 packet Safbrew Abbaye Yeast, BE-256

According to BeerSmith and the settings for my equipment and process, the above should yield a beer with the following characteristics:

Original Gravity (OG): 19.44 Plato (actual was 20.9 Brix)
IBU: 20.3
Color: 6.0 SRM
ABV: 9.3%
Volume: 5 gallons

The Mash

I placed 5 gallons in The Grainfather's kettle, and a net amount of 2.5 gallons in the sparge water kettle. The mash water was treated with a Campden Tablet to remove chlorine and chloramine. The mash water was heated to 150F while I measured and crushed the grain.

A 90-minute mash at 150F was followed by a 10-minute mash out at 167F.  The 2.5 gallons of sparge water were transferred onto the grain basket to sparge the grain.

Pre-boil volume hit 6.6 gallons at a gravity of 14.1 Brix prior to the addition of the sugar and syrup.

The Boil

The recipe I started with for this one included a 90-minute boil. I tacked on an additional 15 minutes. For the first 15 minutes, no hops were added. The goal was to improve clarity.

The 90-minute boil schedule was pretty simple.

90 minutes: Add table sugar, Northern Brewer, and 0.5 oz. Styrian Goldings
15 minutes Add sweet orange peel, 0.3 oz. Styrian Goldings, Hallertau, Irish Moss, Coriander
10 minutes: Begin recirculating boiling wort through the counter flow chiller to sterilize it
3 minutes: Add bitter orange peel
2 minutes: Add Saaz for aroma
0 minutes: Cool down the counter flow chiller by running cold water through

Post-boil volume was 6 gallons at a gravity of 20.9 Brix.


Thanks to the cold winter weather, tap water was around 56F today. This allowed me to instantly chill the wort to 70F as it pumped into the fermenter. I intentionally arranged the transfer tube so that it would churn the wort a bit as it pumped into the fermenter, adding some oxygen.

Owing to a lot of sediment in the kettle, I ended up with about 4.5 gallons in the fermenter. I decided not to transfer the really sediment filled wort at the bottom, so I lost about a half gallon there. Since I wanted a clear beer, I decided it was worth the trade.

The dry Safbrew Abbaye yeast was pitched on top of the wort, the fermenter sealed, and the airlock inserted. Within just a few hours, the airlock was already bubbling.

As I tend to do with Belgian style beers, I do not plan to control the fermentation temperature on this batch. I'm leaving it in the 65-68F basement over the next week or two, allowing it to ferment at whatever temperature it reaches. In my experience, I tend to get the best flavor from Belgian yeast when it's allowed to take care of itself.

After 1-2 weeks in the fermenter, I'll transfer it to my mini-fridge and get it down as close in temperature to 32F as I can. I'll leave it there for at least a week. This should drop out a lot of the haze-inducing proteins and help clear up the beer. The Clarity Ferm should help with this as well, and will remove most of the gluten.

My plan then will be to bottle it with corn sugar and rehydrated champagne yeast to carbonate, as this has been working well for me recently. The beer will spend a week at 76F, then tested to ensure it's carbonated. If so, it will be transferred to a refrigerator to spend 1-2 weeks clearing up.

Update12/28/2016: Tonight I got the beer into bottles. It had reached what my refractometer measured to be 9.1 Brix. After some calculations in BeerSmith, that worked out to a final gravity of 2.1 Plato and a final ABV estimate of 9.76%. Before brewing, BeerSmith and I had estimated a final ABV around 9.4%. The finished beer was extremely cloudy, almost as though it had been brewed with wheat and a not-so-flocculent yeast strain. That may settle out in conditioning but I'm not expecting it to at this point. The fermentation must have been quite intense. With approximately 5 gallons of wort in the fermenter, the yeast and sediment on the sides of the fermenter reached as high as the lid in the 7.5 gallon fermenter.


On December 28, the beer was gravity-transferred into a stainless bucket into which 5 ounces of corn sugar dissolved in 16 ounces of boiled water had been placed. Pre-bottling volume in the bucket was about 4.75 gallons.

A variety of 22-ounce and 12-ounce bottles were sanitized and filled. The final count was 16 of the 22-ounce bomber bottles and 15 of the 12-ounce bottles. In reality, I think a few of the bottles were 16-ounce instead of 12 and one was probably 25-ounce. Still, that's approximately the equivalent of 47 12-ounce bottles.

I placed as many of the bottles as would fit into an insulated cooler with a seedling mat heater and temperature controller. They'll be kept at approximately 76F for a week, when I'll move them out and swap in a new set of bottles. This has proven to provide good carbonation in the past.

After two weeks of bottle conditioning, I'll chill and test one of the bombers. If it's properly carbonated and tastes good, I'll move the rest into a refrigerated space to chill them. That may clear up some of the cloudiness.

Update 1/4/2017:  I chilled one of the bombers and opened it. There was a small amount of carbonation, enough to make the bottle hiss slightly but not enough to generate a head when poured into a chilled glass. I'm going to give it another week in the bottles and see how it does.

Post-Mortem and Additional Notes

As is often the case for me, I ended up substituting a couple of ingredients here. The original recipe I found called for clear candi sugar rocks and didn't include cara-pils malt. I decided the golden candi syrup would impart a nicer flavor and wanted the cara-pils to help improve head stability in the finished beer. The BeerSmith estimates provided with the recipe take these substitutions into account.

The brewing process went very smoothly this time, apart from the kettle nearly boiling over at one point while I was emptying out the grain basket. I came out a little high on gravity and low on volume in the fermenter, but these weren't entirely unexpected. I added 15 minutes to the boil (without hops) to help get some proteins out of the beer, which would have reduced the volume by perhaps a tenth of a gallon. In addition, I could have hit my fermenter volume if I'd been willing to allow the pump to suck up a lot of the sediment and protein in the bottom of the kettle. I probably lost a half-gallon to that decision.

Update 12/28/2016:  After bottling the beer, I took the last of the beer from the bottling bucket and poured it into a container I could drink from. The aroma was a combination of bubblegum, fruit, and sweet malt. The flavor at that point was extremely close to my ideal tripel. It's mildly sweet but not sugary. There is plenty of fruit and citrus from the coriander, orange peel, and yeast. If it turns out even remotely close to this initial taste test, I may have found my perfect Tripel recipe. If you like a more dry, hoppy tripel, this is not the recipe for you.

Update 02/13/2018:  I placed a bottle of the beer in the refrigerator a couple of weeks ago. Tonight I opened it.  It poured a very bright, clear gold with minimal carbonation.  The sweetness level is right about where I would want it. The fruity element is more clear, and the hops bitterness is balanced well against the sweetness.  It needs more carbonation, but is otherwise quite close to what I want.