Skip to main content

Rhinegeist Truth Clone Recipe

Disclaimer: While searching for a good IPA recipe, I discovered the following on a forum online. I am not claiming authorship of the recipe below. If the forum post I read is factual, and I have no reason to think it isn't, this recipe includes input from one of the Rhinegeist brewmasters. That means it probably can produce a beer very close to the original. I plan to brew it at some point to see how it turns out. For now, I'm just documenting and sharing the recipe here.

Update 06/11/2017:  I've actually tweaked the recipe for my equipment and brewed a batch, following as much of the brewmaster's guidance as possible.  You can see the results here.

Ingredients

8.5 pounds of Rahr Pale Malt (67.3%)
2.75 pounds of Golden Promise Malt (19.5%)
12 ounces of Briess Vienna Malt (5.3%)
10 ounces of Carared Malt (4.4%)
8 ounces of Flaked Rye (3.5%)
0.65 ounces of Bravo hops pellets @ 15.0% AA (60 minutes)
0.71 ounces of Centennial hops pellets @ 10% AA (20 minutes)
0.30 ounces of Simcoe hops pellets @ 10% AA (20 minutes)
1.10 ounces of Centennial hops pellets @ 10% AA (10 minutes)
0.25 ounces of Simcoe hops pellets @ 13% AA (10 minutes)
2 ounces of Centennial hops pellets @ 10% AA (0 minutes)
1.5 ounces of Simcoe hops pellets @ 13% AA (0 minutes)
1 ounce of Citra hops pellets @ 12% AA (0 minutes)
2 ounces of Amarillo hops pellets @ 9.2% AA (dry hop 7 days)
1.5 ounces of Simcoe hops pellets @ 13% AA (dry hop 7 days)
1 ounce of Citra hops pellets @ 12% AA (dry hop 7 days)
1 Tbsp. Irish Moss
1.5 Liter starter of San Diego Super Yeast (WLP090)

Notes from the Rhinegeist brewmaster say that they use 20% Golden Promise malt, 2% CaraRed, 4% Flaked Rye, and 5% Vienna and mash at 150F. The brewmaster also says that they hop with 30 IBUs worth of Bravo at 60 minutes, 20 IBUs of a 2:1 mix of Centennial and Simcoe at 20 minutes, and 16 IBUs worth of a 2:1 mixture of Centennial and Simcoe at 10 minutes. At 0 minutes they and Centennial, Simcoe, and Citra then steep for 45 minutes before cooling. They dry hop with Amarillo, Simcoe, and Citra for 7-8 days. They suggest you shoot for a starting gravity of 15 Plato or 1.061 SG, and try to attenuate down to 1.9 Plato or 1.007 SG.

Mash

Mash with 8 gallons of water for 90 minutes @ 150F. Raise to 170F over 7 minutes for mash out.

Boil

Boil for 60 minutes with the hops scheduled as noted above.

Perform a hop stand by turning off the heat but waiting for 45 minutes to cool the wort after the boil.

Fermentation Schedule

Ferment at 65F for 3 days.

Ramp from 65F to 70F over 4 days.

Add dry hops on day 7.

Cold crash with a gelatin addition for 3 days.



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Grainfather Specifications for BeerSmith, Beer Tools Pro, and Other Software

Recently, I've been trying to "dial in" settings in BeerSmith and Beer Tools Pro so that I can do a better job getting my actual brewing results to match up to the figures in the software. Below are some of the figures I've worked out with my US Grainfather. Given manufacturing variances and possible measuring errors on my part, these might not match exactly to yours, but hopefully they're close enough that it will help you. BeerSmith Equipment Profile: Brewhouse Efficiency: 83% (based on my experience, yours may vary) Mash Tun Volume: 8 gallons Mash Tun Weight: 8.82 pounds Mash Tun Specific Heat: 0.12 Cal/gram-deg C Mash Tun Addition: 0 gallons Lauter Tun Losses: 0 gallons Top Up Water for Kettle: 0 gallons Boil Volume: 6.25 gallons Boil Time: 60 minutes Boil Off: 0.40 gallons per hour Cooling Shrinkage: 6% Loss to Trub and Chiller: 0.53 gallons Batch Volume: 5 gallons Fermenter Loss: 0.40 gallons (yours may vary) Whirlpool time: 0 minutes B

Yellow Label Angel Yeast vs. Typical Brewing Yeast

I currently have my second batch of rice wine fermenting with the "magical" yellow-label Angel Yeast from China, and wanted to share some of the more unusual aspects of using it.  If you've never seen or used this yeast, I suspect you're not alone.  It ships in a 500 gram package that looks like this: What makes it "yellow label" is that yellow box you see in the upper left corner of the package.  This implies that it's yeast for distilling (though you do not need to have a still or distill the output to use it).  As I understand it, inside the package is a mix of yeast and other materials which will convert starch into sugar and directly ferment it, without the need for a traditional mash step.  This can radically shorten your brewing time.  For my most-recent batch of rice wine, I heated 3 gallons of water to 155F, poured it over 13+ pounds of uncooked rice straight out of the bag, let that soak for an hour, rehydrated some of this yeast in warm water,

Things I've Learned Brewing with The Grainfather, Part 2

In the last post, I shared an overview of The Grainfather, recommended equipment to use with it, and an overview of the brewing process.  In this installment, I'm going to talk specifically about mashing and sparging. Having brewed over a dozen batches with it, I'm finally becoming very comfortable with the device, the mash process, and how to get what I want out of it. I don't consider myself a "master" of it yet, though. For those who have never done all-grain brewing, I want to provide a quick overview of the mash process itself. Mashing - With or Without The Grainfather The goal of mashing is to turn the starches in the grain into sugars. More specifically, you want to turn the starches into a mix of fermentable and unfermentable sugars that provide the flavor profile associated with the beer you are brewing. A sweeter beer might warrant more unfermentable sugars. A more dry beer will demand few unfermentable sugars. To a great extent, controlling the